The shotgun is unique in its ability to fire shells containing varying numbers of pellets, different sized shot and slugs. It is really quite a versatile defense tool that can be a lot of fun to train with.
Let’s start with some Shotgun Basics:
The term “gauge” describes bore diameter, but unlike “caliber” used for handguns and rifles, the larger the number, the smaller the bore. (The inside diameter of the barrel.) So a higher gauge number means the internal diameter of the barrel is smaller, while a smaller gauge number means the internal diameter of the barrel is bigger, so a 12-gauge bore is bigger than a 20-gauge bore. Shotgun ammunition is measured in gauge as well, rather than in caliber for handguns and rifles.
Gauge was defined by the number of solid balls the same diameter as the inside of the barrel that could be made from a pound of lead. Thus, the 10-gauge shotgun is larger than the 12-gauge, which is larger than the 20-gauge. While there are many different sizes, or gauges, of shotguns, the two most often recommended for home defense are 12 gauge and 20 gauge shotgun.
I will start by saying that generally – the 20 gauge is a better choice for a woman for home defense. a 20 gauge will be easier to handle, have less recoil and more than adequately provide stopping power. But…. I will finish by saying that many woman can both handle and prefer the added power of a 12 qauge. Your physical size and your ability and/or sensitivity to recoil will be determining factors.
There are two type shotguns and action describes how they cycle rounds.
I would suggest a gas-operated semiautomatic 20-gauge for most women. The gas-operated semiautomatic is much softer kicking than any other shotgun type firing the same shell. The 20 gauge is readily available in an 18″ length as well and in junior sizes which fit a woman’s size better. The semiautomatic shotgun can shoot multiple shots quickly and without any manual action. The cost is more expensive than a pump action though. As it is a more complex machine it requires proper cleaning and care.
The advantages of manual operation is the lower cost and the gun’s ability handle a variety of different kinds of ammunition. A number of semi-automatic shotguns will not cycle low-powered bird shot, a common and inexpensive choice of ammunition for training. Because the pump shotguns do not need not harness the gases when the shell is fired to operate the gun, a pump-action shotgun can fire a greater variety of ammunition and can operate when dirty or un-lubricated, since the shooter does all the work manually. On the down side, the pump-action shotgun will have more felt recoil than a semi-automatic shotgun of the same gauge and must be manually “pumped” for each shot.
Size matters in two important aspects: length of barrel and length of pull.
The length of the shotgun barrel typically ranges from 18″ to 28″. A long shotgun barrel, is difficult to maneuver around corners and through a house. The 18″ barrel is the best option.
Length of pull refers to the distance from gun butt to the trigger. If the size of the shotgun is wrong, you are going to be less accurate and it will be more difficult for you to work the controls on the gun. While aftermarket (add on) stocks allow for an adjustable length of pull, a great option for women is to purchase a youth-sized shotgun. These shotguns have a shorter stock and typically are less expensive.
As a general rule, when the butt of the shotgun is held in the elbow crook of your bent arm, the first joint crease on your index finger should fully contact the trigger. The 20-gauge youth shotguns fit this dimension perfectly for many women and should be seriously considered when buying a home-defense shotgun.
If a youth model is too short, you can add a recoil pad which not only dampens the felt recoil enormously, but also adds length to the stock.
Choke is the degree of constriction machined into the muzzle end of the barrel. It’s a way of controlling the size of the pattern or spray at a given range. The tighter the choke the tighter the pellets are squeezed together so the pattern holds tighter over a longer distance. Conversely, the less restriction you have in the shotgun choke the more loosely the pellets are held together and the faster the pattern opens up.
Shotgun ammunition is measured in gauge rather than in caliber and because shotguns are very versatile firearms, ammunition manufactured for them comes in a very wide variety of types and varying sizes and power. The gauge number is on the shotgun ammunition box. Your shotgun ammunition must match the gauge of your shotgun.
The length of the shell is another very important number. Not all lengths will feed in all shotguns. The common lengths are 2-3/4 inches, 3 inches, and 3-1/2 inches. The longer the shell, the more shot pellets and powder it can contain. Shotguns which are designed to load a shorter shell should never be used to fire a larger shell, even if the larger shell physically fits within the gun.This can be extremely dangerous as the gun may not be able to handle the higher pressures a more powerful ammunition produces.
There are three basic types of shells:
Dram Equivalent (power)
Dram Equivalent will tell you how powerful the ammunition is. Originally, drams were a black powder weight measure but now modern shotgun ammunition uses smokeless powder. Shotgun ammunition manufacturers use dram equivalents to indicate how much power the load has. The higher the dram equivalent number, the more energy the ammunition has and the faster the shot will travel.
To quickly stop an attacker, the pellets must penetrate his body deeply enough to cause internal damage and stop him immediately.Shotgun pellets are classified into three general categories:
1. Birdshot, of which individual pellets are typically less than .20 caliber in diameter. Not recommended for a defensive round but excellent and less expensive for practice.
2. Buckshot, which varies in diameter from .24 caliber to .36 caliber. The recommended round for home defense.
3. Slug, which is an individual cylindrical projectile designed to be discharged from a shotgun. As a single projectile, slugs must be carefully aimed to be effective.
Buckshot is generally recommended for home defense, the larger the buckshot the greater the stopping power and the greater the chances of over-penetration and injury to innocents in other rooms or buildings. If you are in a densely populated home or neighborhood you can minimize the risk of over-penetration by using small game loads of #6 Birdshot or smaller, but this sacrifices a great deal of effectiveness. Versatility in available loadings is a great strength of shotguns, but you must choose your loads carefully for your environment. The largest shot size commercially available is #2 buck.
For home defense, a shotgun is superior to a handgun in terms of being able to stop a violent intruder as quickly as possible. A reliable, well-made, pump-action shotgun can usually be purchased for less than the cost of a handgun of comparable quality. Also, inexpensive birdshot ammunition, typically used for training applications, is about three-fourths the cost, round for round, of comparable handgun ammunition.
If you’re considering a shotgun for home defense or already have one, we stongly suggest you attend a “defensive shotgun” training course from a reputable shooting school. It’s one thing to be armed with a well-equipped, high-tech shotgun and premium personal defense ammunition, but if you’re not comfortable or skilled shotgun shooter, you’re the weakest link in your home defense weapon system.
Skill with the shotgun, like any other defensive firearm, requires competent instruction and dedicated practice. When these skills are mastered, it becomes a powerful and effective weapon and a wonderfully fun sporting activity.
More detailed information about shotguns, shotgun ammunition, and shotgun use can also be found on Chuck Hawkes’ site at http://www.chuckhawks.com/index2c.shotguns.htm.